Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Breaking News: Butter Crisis hits Norway


Just a few of the headlines hitting Norwegian newspapers these days are:


"Empty shelves dilemma"
"Cities run out of butter"
"Butter panic hits Norway!"


Every nation faces adversity - even the richest of countries. Norway is facing an emergency of unparalleled notability. The country has run out of butter, and the people are not happy. You may consider this a minor crisis, a "First-world problem", if you will, but speaking as someone of Norwegian decent, a butter hiatus is no small matter. Butter is the lifeblood of all our cooking and baking. A Norwegian newspaper quotes: "An acute butter shortage...has left people worrying how to bake their Christmas goodies."

To see a first-hand account of Norwegian people's feelings on the matter, watch the following video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82EaTbxihBI


As you can see, this is no laughing matter to Norwegians, but in the following clip, Colbert cruelly mocks their desperate plight.  


http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-videos/404098/december-12-2011/norway-s-butter-shortage?xrs=share_fb











Sunday, November 27, 2011

From Clumsy to Cushy Confinement - featuring Akerhus Fortress


Norway is known to have one of the most progressive and experimental penal systems in the world. The maximum sentence for any criminal is 21 years, and those years are devoted to providing the resources and facilities required for the practical and moral development of these criminals. Even Breivik (the recent Norwegian terrorist and gunman charged with 77 deaths) has been given this same sentence. Despite public demand to have him subjected to a more severe sentencing, the Norwegians are making no exceptions to their imprisonment policy. I think the Norwegian Prime Minister's response to the terrorist attacks reflects the penal philosophy nicely: “If one man can show so much hate, imagine how much love an entire nation can show.” In dealing with acts of inhumanity, Norway seems to be a leading example in the virtue of not repaying evil with evil, but with grace and mercy. They've really turned a leaf since the Viking Age...

I would take Breivik's "solitary confinement" cell over my room any day.

The other day, I visited Akerhus Fortress in Oslo. It dates back to the 14th century, and has served a variety of functions - a primary one being as a prison for convicts and political enemies. Today, it acts as a museum, and retells stories of inmates in the 18th and 19th century, and their infamous crimes and escapes. The prison system in those days was used as a sort of house of slavery; work included cobbler work, tailoring, carpentry and stone masonry. 

Gjest Baardsen is the most famous Norwegian prisoner because of his many clever escapes.

Baardsen was tasked with carving this lion, which still sits outside the Oslo municipal hall.

Throughout the tour of the fortress, there was a strong emphasis on how unideal the prison system was throughout the centuries. As I mentioned above, it served as a form of slavery, and because of the lack of individual rooms, there was much communal living. The criminals themselves admitted that this set-up acted as a sort of “school for criminals”. After their escape from prison, they would be able to employ newly acquired lessons for their criminal engagements. It was eventually realized that reform was needed, and quite possibly a new holding space for criminals, as Akerhus was not fit for solitary confinement or for the growing number of prisoners.

Akerhus Fortress



On the grounds of Akerhus Fortress



Apart from exhibiting very interesting history and entertaining personal accounts of inmates, it is very clear that the primary thrust of the fortress museum is to demonstrate that their current progressive penal system is strongly rooted in the history of internment at places like Akerhus fortress. In the middle of the 1800s, prisoners were beginning to be moved to alternative prisons, where more effective punishment and restorative justice could take place. New directions introduced a much more strict solitary life, interactions limited to the prison director, priests, teachers, and prison guards.

Curious to see today's allegedly progressive prison conditions in Norway, I asked the museum curator where the current Oslo prison is located, and if I could visit it. She looked at me like I was crazy and said she didn't think that was possible. I explained that this is allowed in Canada and that I was curious to see how different their set-up is different from ours. However, apparently, privacy for inmates is one of Norway's prison philosophies.

More scenes of Akerhus

Norway has been criticized for their “cushy prison” experiments, however, they seem to be proving quite effective. Prisoners can get an education (degrees in fact), married, and acquire many practical skills. If you have time, check out this prison in the link below; it's an island south of Oslo called Bastoy. It is a low-security prison, where inmates live in houses, have saunas, sun-bathe, study, etc. This is the most lofty of Norway's prisons. 



 Believe it or not, this man is in prison.
These "cushy prisons" are obviously not for all prisoners. They are for prisoners who have demonstrated considerable improvement, and are preparing for transitioning back into society.

You know you're in Norway when...continued.


...cities and towns are surrounded by such dramatic beauty.

 ...trolls are ludicrously large.

 
..."Girls nights" end in knitting.

...natural geographical features are exploited to reduce the amount of resources needed for erecting a shelter  (actually, this is done in Iceland too).


...there are hobbit holes.


...Peer Gynt is in the Oslo "walk of fame".


..."Henrik Ibsen" is a main street.

...and Bus stations have becoming names :)



Saturday, November 19, 2011

You know you're in Norway when...



...it's considered a bargain to get a cheeseburger and coke for $15











...trolls roam the streets and stand guard at store fronts.




...people are exclusively blond...
...unless they're foreign.

...it's normal to see Krumkaka sold as a commonplace cookie in all stores.  

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Bedtime Story



Thursday nights, Airwaves Hotel Reykjavik Natura hosts "Bedtime Stories", where professional actors/readers come and tell/read Icelandic stories to an audience. This is a free event, and they offer hot chocolate, cookies, pillows, and blankets, and encourage us to wear our pyjamas. The story teller tonight was, in fact, one of my professors at the University, and he told us wonderful folkloric tales of elves, seals, trolls, and ghosts. He sat in an idyllic red velvet armchair, on a dark stage with a single lamp shining down on his book.

The story I want to tell you is about the origin of elves. But first, whatever your impression of elves may be, Icelandic elves are said to be very similar to humans, only more beautiful, and capable. They live only in the countryside, maintaining a rural lifestyle, tending sheep and cattle.

The genesis of elves is an interesting mixture of Nordic and Christian mythology. In the beginning, Adam and Eve had fourteen children. They lived in a house, and one day God came to visit them. Eve was in the middle of bathing the children when God arrived. God asked Eve how many children she and Adam had, and if he may see them. Eve was ashamed to present the seven unbathed children to God, so she told Him that they had seven children, and presented the clean ones to Him. God, knowing very well how many children there were in reality, said to Eve: "What you have kept hidden from my eyes will also be kept hidden from human eyes henceforward." And this is why elves are not visible to humans today, except for when elves wish to reveal themselves.

Hotsprings

I heard recently that there is a thermal river tucked away in the mountains, about an hour's drive east of Reykjavik, in an area called "Reykjadal". I got on a bus with two friends, Lukas and Anna, and we hiked our way through billowing clouds of hot water and steam bursting forth from the ground. These emissions from the earth were met with hail and snow coming from above. I suppose this is one example of why they call Iceland a land of extreme contrasts.

Here are some photos from the day:

Anna and Lukas being warmed by the steam
This water was boiling like crazy.


Looking back.


More waterfalls




At the source of this thermal river, the temperature is 90 degrees, but here it was about 40.

Lukas looking like some mythological character.
We spent two hours soaking in the hotspring, dreaming about being able to stay there all through the night. Nobody wanted to get out and back into the snow and mucky path. I decided to walk back down the mountain in the thermal river because my feet (and body) were freezing. It eased the pain of leaving the hot water, but by the time we got to the bottom, the water was cold and the air even more so, so...pretty miserable end to the day, but on a whole, it was magical.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Protests at the Alðingi

I wrote in an earlier post that Icelanders can get fairly aggressive when it comes to political protests. I read a couple weeks ago in the local paper - The Grapevine - that there would be a protest outside the Althingi Parliament the next day, so I wandered on downtown, situated myself in a quaint little coffee shop until the scheduled protest. When I heard two gunshots go off, I piled all my books back into my bag, and followed the noise over to Parliament. For a bit of background information, many Icelanders are unhappy about their ongoing economic instability, restricted fishing rights, and the government's ongoing consideration of EU membership. 

This is what I encountered:

Apart from those making the smoke, people looked more like spectators than protesters
Parents do not shelter their children from such violent political displays; they make sure they get the best views (note child on shoulders).

Google translation of Icelandic sign: "Free brings ham solve urban poverty and employment problems Icelanders." Either this man has very poor grammar, or Google translate is not to be trusted; you decide. I trust you can all decipher the meaning.
 

A desecrated flag?! Where is your national pride?
Althingi
 This was about the extent of the protest. People threw toilet paper at parliament  instead of skyre and snowballs this time. Actually, I heard the next day that Reykjavikers were pretty disappointed in the rioters, pointing out that they were very passive and ineffective. I don't think this riot would have made any international reports, so I won't blame you if you had no knowledge of it.